The epic 1000 km bikepacking ride across Iceland
Read Frederik Leth’s documentary in words and pictures below:
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Back in January a couple of OMs (Original Mountainbikers) planned to go bikepacking across Iceland. After a couple of test rides and a lot of gear preparation, Mads, Jacob and I (Frederik) landed in Iceland to cross the island from the easternmost to the westernmost point. A route of 1000+ km with all food and all gear for ten days (EVOC) packed on the bike. It was going to be a journey out in the middle of nowhere, and it could only succeed without accidents and breakdowns … Or maybe we are just some optimistic idiots of mountain bikers.
Day 1
We woke up outside the domestic airport in Reykjavik on a very cold and rainy morning. Then we got on the bikes to reach the easternmost point, which was the start of our ride across Iceland. Probably the toughest thing we could have imagined. Soaked and cold, the view was the only thing that lifted our wet departure.
Route-wise we started with a long climb of 600 vertical metres, and because of the fog there were moments when visibility disappeared. On the way down: again one of the coldest passes we have ever tried. There was a shipwreck at the bottom, and I had been looking forward to that – it gave some much-needed energy. The road to the easternmost point was long, hard and wet. We finally reached the lighthouse in rain and wind and luckily found a small shed where we could shelter and make the hot meal that had kept me going. And then … the gas didn’t fit, and we got a cold meal instead. Of course. We laughed about the situation anyway, because it was really stupid.
Day 2
A long, long day awaited. Again a long climb to start with, rewarded with Iceland’s finest view on the way down the other side. The clouds lifted, and the most magnificent landscape appeared. The day was long and hilly. Mostly asphalt, which didn’t make it very interesting. Luckily the sun came out more and gave us some energy. The legs started to burn, and we didn’t know if the food would last. What we had counted on was nowhere near enough! The thought of the hut with the hot springs was really what kept us going. The legs were almost cramping, and when we finally jumped into the hot springs we got completely dizzy from the effort … and maybe from the lack of water.
Gravel roads, volcanoes and glacier rivers: our Icelandic adventure continues
Day 3
Good grief, what a day! Damn hard! But the landscape made the pain disappear. So much different landscape in Iceland – meadows over all the mountains, soft and green. Then over a big dam and into the volcanic landscape. So empty and yet so full, with roads so rough they were definitely not made for gravel bikes. We missed our mountain bikes a bit. At 4 o’clock we found out we were already halfway, and the smiles came out. Again the landscape changed, and new views … new emotional sights. Breathtaking, and you feel SMALL.
Still hard, but the sun warmed us up, and a magnificent sunset over the lava cliffs made all the difference.
Day 4
We started with waffles in the Askja hut. We also discovered that we had camped right under one of Iceland’s biggest active volcanoes. So we set off happily into the completely black, dusty landscape. A couple of rangers advised us to stick to the route, and we noticed that the area we were heading for was something we had seen before. Lots of lava landscape with a really fine and fun surface, which sent us on to the worst cobbled road. Imagine a drunk bricklayer laying a road with 10 cm of height difference between each stone. It was so uneven we could barely sit down.
Afterwards we met another group riding the north–south route. Good company and good vibes. We desperately needed water, but luckily an emergency hut had some for us. We ended up camping in the open after a good, long day.
Day 5
That was probably the day that felt longest. Windy, cold, and the landscape was the same all the time – quite rocky and grey. It seemed endless, and it was hard to stay motivated because there was no change in the landscape. We finished at a hut with hot springs.
Day 6
… Followed by probably the best day! The one we thought would be the hardest. After a quick 50 km before lunch we met lots of knee-deep glacier river crossings. We had to change into neoprene shoes every time just to stay somewhat dry. The current was frightening in some of them, and it was hard not to be taken by it. The bike had to be held above the water so it wouldn’t float away. The crossings still gave us energy all day and kept it fun. And then the last one almost got us! Hip-deep water, standing in the middle of the river with a 30 kg bike in hand, and everywhere you step it is hip-deep with a strong current.
After the last crossing … a rainbow appeared over the glacier, as if to say goodbye to this part of the ride. Thanks for that reward! We ended up sprinting to the hut to make it before the kitchen closed.
Battling the elements and 160 km to finish our Iceland adventure
Day 7
We discussed the rest of the route over breakfast, and it looked optimistic. We were all nearly done, and it seemed so far and a bit stressful to make the ferry home. Wet clothes on again for the sixth day in a row. Not sure if we would make it.
We got going, and the first kilometres flew by. Sometimes you just have to get started.
We changed the route so it became 20 km longer, but hoped for a smoother ride. And somehow, with good legs, good vibes and a whole lot of luck with the weather, we reached 160 km on the day! We saw beautiful landscapes, rode with horses and saw a wild arctic fox – we rode with it for a while – an absolutely wild experience. I almost wanted to cry when we reached 160 km. We caught up so much that we agreed to enjoy it a bit – not stress too much about making the ferry. Incredible what a day can do. We ended up at a petrol station and camped behind it – not glamorous, but it did the job.
Day 8
We started slowly in the morning and stocked up at the petrol station. Then we set off into the most insane headwind, which later turned into crosswind and then headwind again. The bikes were leaning sideways on the road, and it was quite nerve-racking. The landscape got greener and the fjords were beautiful, but most of the day I unfortunately just spent looking down and pedalling.
Last day
Despite some very long days in Iceland with over 100 km every day in the wildest conditions and at times almost unrideable roads, we reached the end. The sun welcomed us to the westernmost point.
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Thanks for the interest. Pictures and words by https://www.instagram.com/fredleth/
